It is a place with a rich historical past. However, surprisingly very few people even in West Bengal are aware of it. The ruins of Chandraketugarh, a huge fortified township dating back to 4th/3rd century BC is situated just 38 kms from Kolkata. History says that this place in the delta of the Ganga River is the site of one of the oldest cities in Bengal and belonged to the kingdom of a "mighty ruler" with whom Alexander the Great was familiar.
In fact the history of the place dates back to the 3rd century BC during the pre-Mauryan era. It is believed that the place was an important urban center, a bustling town during the tenure of King Ashoka and most probably a port city.
What you find there now is nothing but ruins. Nonetheless for those of you who like to walk the dark recesses of history a visit to the place is a treat in itself as it exposes you to a world that you never knew even existed. In fact, as you walk down to the place you will be a bit disappointed as you will notice nothing much unusual at the surroundings except some ruins at a distance. But as you look down at the ground you are sure to notice the various potsherds that appear strewn across the place. These are nothing but remnants of the ancient civilization that is believed to have flourished centuries back. If ancient history is something that fascinates you this place is a must visit.
In his book Geographia, Claudius Ptolemy mentions a river port called Gange in southwest Bengal. Plutarch wrote about a powerful tribe called Gangaridae living near a prosperous port Gange in the Gangetic delta. Furthermore , an anonymous Greek sailor mentions in his book Periplus of the Erythraean Sea (first century A.D.), a port at the mouth of the Ganga from which Roman ships sailed out with exotic goods. According to the historian Paresh Chandra Dasgupta, Gange most probably was the port town of Chandraketugarh a fact that is corroborated by the large number of ship seals found during excavation of the place.
Not much is known about the history of this civilization. Excavations at the place reveal that a part of the ancient city was surrounded by a high fortress wall where probably the rulers and the other important men lived. The ordinary people like farmer, craftsmen however stayed outside the fort boundaries. The Chandraketugarh site reflects that key era in civilization when agrarian life acquired an urban face. The discovery of carved ivory and bone objects and a few specimens of wood carvings show that skilled craftsmen must have inhabited this place. Chandraketugarh is especially renowned for its terracotta artifacts. What is unusual about the Chandraketugarh terracotta sculptures is their very large numbers, their great variety, and the fact that many of them are extremely well-made and very beautiful.
For a person who loves walking the corridors of history this place is an ideal getaway. As you cross the “burz “imagine you have traveled a few centuries back in time. You have already crossed the moat that surrounded the fort and are probably waiting for the sentry to let you in. Walk down the ancient fortified ramparts, now a nice tree-lined path. Look at the ground below and you will find it scattered with pottery and brick shards lurking underneath the dusty cover, remnants of a long lost civilization.
An important place in the site is the massive temple structure that was excavated in the 1950s which is popularly known as the Khana Mihirer Dhibi. Barahamihir was among the Navaratnas of King Chandragupta II while Khana his wife was famous for her Nostradamus like prediction.
Legend goes that disturbed by Khana’s knowledge her husband Barahamihir cut off her tongue which lies buried under the ruins of the Khana Mihir Dhibi. Whether it is true or not it cannot be denied that as you stand in front of the KhanaMihirer Dhibi you are filled with an intense sense of awe and reverence at being so close to a place where probably India’s legendary mathematician pair dwelled. A set of historians however believe that the Khana Mihir Dhibi is actually the ruins of a Vishnu temple from the Gupta period that was located inside the fort.
While on a tour to Chandraketugarh try to visit Chandraketugarh Pratna Sangrahalaya, which is located in his residential house of Dilip Kumar Maity, on the Taki Road only about 30 meters from the Berachampa's More.
Excavation at this historical site clearly point out that inhabitants of Chandraketugarh had achieved spectacular artistic refinement had a rich cultural and social life. Why did it vanish without a trace? This intriguing mystery of the lost civilization can only be unearthed if the government takes proper initiative to excavate this place and preserve the rich heritage. Unfortunately though the place was first discovered in the early twentieth century till today it has not received its due recognition and continues to be a victim of apathy. One can only hope that with increased tourist interest the government will take proper steps to preserve the historical ruins.
How to get there: The nearest airport is Netaji Subhas Chandra Airport in Kolkata. Chandraketugarh, situated at Latitude 22.41'N and Longitude 88.42'E, is on the Kolkata-Barasat-Basirhat Road, which one can approach through Jessore Road to the north. You can either take a rented car or bus to Berachampa junction from where you need to turn right and travel about a mile. This place is best to visit during the winter season as otherwise the climate can be pretty humid. It is a great getaway for a day suited for people who love history.
